Puerto Rican Arroz con Gandules

Ingredients

• 3 cups medium-grain white rice, rinsed briefly and drained well
• 1 can (15 oz) green pigeon peas (gandules), with their liquid
• 4 tbsp achiote or annatto oil
• 1/2 lb cooked or smoked ham, cut into small dice
• 1/2 cup Puerto Rican sofrito made with onion, garlic, sweet peppers, cilantro and culantro
• 2 tbsp alcaparrado, drained and chopped if the olives are large
• 1 packet sazón con achiote, optional according to household preference
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp ground cumin, optional
• 1 bay leaf
• 3 1/2 cups low-sodium chicken broth or water
• Kosher salt, only as needed after tasting the cooking liquid

Method

1. 1.Heat the achiote oil in a caldero or heavy 5- to 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the diced ham and cook 4 to 6 minutes, stirring, until the edges take on light golden color and smell savory rather than raw.
2. 2.Add the sofrito, alcaparrado, bay leaf, optional sazón, oregano and optional cumin. Cook 3 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Checkpoint: the sofrito should darken slightly and smell sweet and aromatic, with no raw onion or pepper aroma remaining.
3. 3.Stir in the gandules with their liquid, then add the broth or water. Bring to a lively simmer and taste the liquid; add salt only if needed because the ham, olives, capers and sazón may already provide enough.
4. 4.Stir in the drained rice and bring back to a steady boil over medium heat. Cook uncovered 10 to 15 minutes, stirring only once or twice near the beginning so the rice distributes evenly.
5. 5.Checkpoint: the liquid should fall to roughly the level of the rice, the surface grains should become visible with small bubbles breaking between them, and the aroma should be strongly of sofrito and achiote rather than raw starch.
6. 6.Lower the heat to the lowest setting, gently turn the rice once from the outer edge toward the center, cover tightly and cook 25 to 30 minutes without repeatedly opening the lid.
7. 7.Open the pot and test grains from the center. Checkpoint: the rice should be tender all the way through, the gandules should remain intact, and no wet broth should pool at the bottom. If the center is still firm, sprinkle in 2 to 3 tablespoons hot water, cover and steam 5 minutes more.
8. 8.Fluff gently with a fork or broad spoon, cover again and rest off the heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Serve hot with pernil, roast pork or other Puerto Rican mains, or as a substantial rice dish on its own.