Egyptian Koshary (Rice, Lentils, Pasta and Chickpeas)

Ingredients

• 3 large yellow onions, sliced into even 1/8-inch half-moons
• 3/4 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 2 cups neutral oil, for frying
• 1 cup brown or black lentils, rinsed and picked over
• 1 cup medium-grain white rice, rinsed until the water is nearly clear
• 1/2 cup broken vermicelli noodles
• 1 tsp ground cumin, divided
• 4 cups water, divided, plus more for pasta
• 8 oz small elbow macaroni or ditalini
• 1 can chickpeas, 15 oz, drained and rinsed
• 5 garlic cloves, finely minced, divided
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 can crushed tomatoes, 28 oz
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1/2 tsp red chile flakes, plus more to taste
• 1/2 cup white vinegar, divided
• 2 tbsp fresh lemon juice
• 1 small hot chile, minced, optional

Method

1. 1.Toss the sliced onions with the flour and 1/2 teaspoon salt, separating every strand. Heat 1 inch of oil in a wide heavy skillet to 325°F. Shake excess flour from half the onions and fry 8 to 12 minutes, stirring often, until evenly deep golden. Transfer to a rack or paper towels, then repeat with the remaining onions.
2. 2.Let the onions cool uncovered. Checkpoint: they may feel slightly flexible when first lifted but should become crisp within 5 minutes. If still leathery, return them to 325°F oil for 1 to 2 minutes; discard any bitter black pieces. Reserve 3 tablespoons onion oil for cooking.
3. 3.Put the lentils and 2 cups water in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and cook 12 minutes. The lentils should be partly tender but still firm at the center; drain only if more than 1/2 cup liquid remains.
4. 4.Heat 1 tablespoon reserved onion oil in a separate heavy saucepan. Toast the vermicelli over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes until nut-brown. Stir in the rice, lentils, 1/2 teaspoon cumin, 1/2 teaspoon salt and 2 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce to low and cook 15 minutes.
5. 5.Remove the rice-lentil pot from the heat and rest, covered, 10 minutes. Fluff gently with a fork. The rice should be separate and the lentils tender but intact; if either is still firm, sprinkle in 2 tablespoons hot water, cover and steam over the lowest heat for 5 minutes.
6. 6.Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons reserved onion oil in a saucepan over medium. Cook 3 minced garlic cloves for 30 seconds, then stir in the tomato paste, coriander, remaining 1/2 teaspoon cumin and chile flakes for 1 minute. Add the crushed tomatoes and 1/2 teaspoon salt.
7. 7.Simmer the tomato sauce uncovered for 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until brick red and thick enough that a spoon drawn across the pan leaves a path for a second. Stir in 2 tablespoons vinegar, taste and adjust salt or chile.
8. 8.For the daqqa, crush the remaining 2 garlic cloves with a pinch of salt. Whisk with 1/4 cup vinegar, lemon juice and 1/4 cup water. For optional shatta, mix the minced hot chile with the remaining 2 tablespoons vinegar and 2 tablespoons tomato sauce; set both condiments aside.
9. 9.Boil the macaroni in well-salted water until just al dente according to the package. Drain thoroughly. Warm the chickpeas in a small saucepan with 1/4 cup water and a pinch of salt for 5 minutes, then drain.
10. 10.To assemble each bowl, spoon in rice and lentils, add a layer of macaroni and scatter over chickpeas. Ladle on tomato sauce and crown with a generous handful of crisp onions. Serve daqqa and shatta at the table rather than stirring them into the full batch.
11. 11.Eat immediately while the onions are crisp and the components are warm. Store onions airtight at room temperature for 1 day and refrigerate all other components separately for up to 4 days; reheat the rice, lentils, pasta and sauce to steaming before assembling.