Somali Baasto iyo Suugo (Pasta with Beef Sauce)

Ingredients

• 1 tbsp ground cumin
• 1 tbsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp ground cardamom
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil or canola oil
• 1 medium red onion, finely chopped
• 1 small green bell pepper, finely chopped
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 lb ground beef, preferably 85 percent lean
• 1 1/4 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus salt for pasta water
• 3 tbsp tomato paste
• 1 can diced tomatoes with juices, 28 oz
• 1 cup water
• 1 lb spaghetti
• 1/2 cup chopped cilantro
• 2 limes, cut into wedges
• 3 ripe bananas, peeled and halved crosswise at serving time

Method

1. 1.Mix the cumin, coriander, cardamom, turmeric, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper in a small bowl. This makes about 3 tablespoons xawaash; keep it beside the stove.
2. 2.Heat the oil in a wide heavy skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add the red onion and green pepper and cook 7 to 9 minutes, stirring occasionally, until soft and beginning to brown at the edges.
3. 3.Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds. Stir in the xawaash for another 30 seconds, just until the spices smell warm and floral. Immediately add the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes, stirring until it darkens to brick red.
4. 4.Add the ground beef and 1 teaspoon salt. Break it into small pieces and cook 8 to 10 minutes, until no pink remains and browned bits form rather than a pool of gray liquid. If the pan becomes crowded and wet, raise the heat briefly and let moisture evaporate.
5. 5.Add the diced tomatoes with their juices and 1 cup water. Scrape the bottom thoroughly, bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle uncovered simmer.
6. 6.Simmer 25 to 30 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes, until the tomatoes have collapsed and the sauce is thick enough to mound briefly on a spoon. Checkpoint: oil may glisten at the edges, but there should be no raw tomato smell or watery layer.
7. 7.While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente according to the package, stirring during the first minute. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain.
8. 8.Taste the sauce and add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt if needed. Stir in half the cilantro. If the sauce feels stiff, add reserved pasta water 2 tablespoons at a time until it coats the noodles without running to the bottom of the plate.
9. 9.Add the spaghetti to the sauce and toss over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, or plate the noodles and spoon suugo generously over each serving. Either service is used in home cooking.
10. 10.Finish with the remaining cilantro. Serve each plate with lime wedges and half a ripe banana on the side; alternate bites of pasta and banana and squeeze lime over the sauce to taste.
11. 11.Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours for up to 4 days. Reheat the sauce with a splash of water until bubbling and 165°F, and cook fresh pasta when possible for the best texture.