Southern Thai Khao Yam (Herbal Rice Salad)

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 cups jasmine rice, rinsed until the water is mostly clear
• 2 cups water, or the amount required by the rice package
• 1/2 cup bottled southern Thai or Malaysian budu fermented fish sauce
• 3/4 cup water, for the dressing
• 2 stalks lemongrass, lower tender portions bruised and cut into 2-inch pieces
• 1 inch galangal, sliced
• 2 small shallots, crushed
• 3 makrut lime leaves, torn and center ribs removed
• 1 pandan leaf, knotted, optional
• 1/3 cup finely chopped palm sugar, plus more to balance
• 1 tbsp tamarind concentrate or 2 tbsp fresh lime juice, as needed
• 3/4 cup unsweetened shredded coconut
• 1/3 cup dried shrimp, ground fluffy in a spice grinder or mortar
• 1 cup bean sprouts, rinsed and dried
• 1 cup yard-long beans or green beans, sliced very thin
• 1 cup pomelo segments, membranes removed and pulp broken into small pieces
• 1 small firm sour mango, peeled and finely julienned, or 1 tart green apple
• 1 small cucumber, seeded and finely julienned
• 2 tender lemongrass stalks, outer layers removed and sliced paper-thin
• 6 makrut lime leaves, center ribs removed and cut into hair-thin threads
• 1/2 cup packed wild betel leaves or mint leaves, sliced thin
• 1/2 cup finely sliced cilantro and scallions
• Roasted chile flakes, for serving
• 6 lime wedges, for serving

Method

1. 1.Cook the rinsed rice with 2 cups water according to the package directions. Rest covered 10 minutes, fluff gently, then spread on a rimmed tray until completely cool and the grains separate without feeling dry.
2. 2.Combine budu, 3/4 cup water, bruised lemongrass, galangal, shallots, torn makrut leaves, optional pandan and palm sugar in a small saucepan. Bring to a gentle boil, skimming any foam, then lower the heat.
3. 3.Simmer the dressing 20 to 25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the palm sugar dissolves and the liquid smells rounded and aromatic rather than sharply fishy. Strain through a fine sieve and cool before judging its balance.
4. 4.Checkpoint: cooled budu dressing should pour easily, taste distinctly salty and sweet, and carry lemongrass and galangal in the aroma. Add tamarind or lime a little at a time for a light sour edge; thin with water if it is syrupy or overwhelmingly salty.
5. 5.Toast the coconut in a dry skillet over medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until deep brown and nutty rather than merely pale gold, 6 to 10 minutes. Transfer immediately to a plate so residual pan heat does not burn it.
6. 6.Toast the ground dried shrimp in the same dry skillet for 2 to 3 minutes, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker. Cool completely. Keep it separate from the coconut for serving.
7. 7.Prepare the bean sprouts, beans, pomelo, mango, cucumber, tender lemongrass, makrut leaves, wild betel or mint, cilantro and scallions. Keep wet ingredients drained and blot the herbs dry so they do not dilute the salad.
8. 8.Checkpoint: the lemongrass and makrut leaf should be fine enough that no strip feels woody when chewed. Re-slice any coarse pieces before they reach the platter.
9. 9.Arrange the cool rice in the center of a large platter and place the vegetables, fruit, herbs, toasted coconut and dried shrimp in separate piles around it. Serve the cooled budu dressing, chile flakes and lime wedges alongside.
10. 10.For each serving, start with about 1 cup rice and a generous handful of every fresh component. Add 1 tablespoon budu dressing and toss thoroughly until the herbs and coconut are distributed through the rice; taste before adding more dressing, chile or lime.
11. 11.Assemble only what will be eaten immediately. Refrigerate extra rice, dressing and cut components separately; use the fresh herbs within 1 day and the dressing within 1 week.