Nigerian Beef Suya (Yaji-Spiced Skewers)

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 lb beef sirloin or blade steak, trimmed of silverskin
• 3 tbsp neutral oil, plus more for the grill grate
• 12 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for at least 30 minutes
• 1 tbsp ground ginger
• 2 tsp sweet paprika
• 2 tsp onion powder
• 1 1/2 tsp garlic powder
• 1 to 2 tsp cayenne pepper, to taste
• 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 1/2 tsp finely ground black pepper or African cubeb pepper
• 1/2 tsp ground grains of Selim, optional
• 1/4 tsp ground cloves
• 1/2 cup plain unsweetened defatted peanut powder
• 1 tsp additional ground ginger
• 1 tsp additional sweet paprika
• 1/2 tsp additional cayenne pepper, or to taste
• 1/2 tsp kosher salt
• 1 medium red onion, very thinly sliced
• 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced
• 1 small cucumber, sliced, optional

Method

1. 1.Wrap the trimmed beef and freeze it for 20 to 30 minutes, until firm at the edges but not frozen solid. With a sharp knife, slice across the grain into strips about 2 inches long, 1 inch wide and 1/8 inch thick.
2. 2.For the basic yaji, mix 1 tablespoon ginger, 2 teaspoons paprika, onion powder, garlic powder, 1 to 2 teaspoons cayenne, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, black or cubeb pepper, optional grains of Selim and cloves. Measure 3 tablespoons into a small cup for seasoning the meat; reserve any extra in a clean jar.
3. 3.For the yajin kuli, whisk the peanut powder with the additional 1 teaspoon ginger, 1 teaspoon paprika, 1/2 teaspoon cayenne and 1/2 teaspoon salt. It should be loose and sandy, not oily or clumped. Set it far from the raw-beef work area so it remains safe for serving.
4. 4.Toss the beef with the neutral oil, then sprinkle over the measured basic yaji in two additions, massaging gently until every surface is evenly rust-red. Cover and refrigerate 30 minutes and up to 8 hours.
5. 5.Thread each strip through twice so it lies flat rather than bunching, leaving 2 inches bare at each end of the skewer. Arrange the completed skewers on a clean tray and refrigerate while heating the grill.
6. 6.Prepare a charcoal or gas grill for two-zone high heat, about 450°F at the grate. Clean and oil the grate. Checkpoint: the hot zone should sear a test edge of beef immediately without tall flames; move or spread coals if grease causes flare-ups.
7. 7.Lay the skewers over direct heat in a single uncrowded layer. Grill 3 to 4 minutes, until the underside is deeply browned in spots and releases from the grate, then turn and cook 3 to 4 minutes more.
8. 8.Check the thickest folded piece with an instant-read thermometer. It should reach at least 145°F; move any underdone skewers to the cooler zone, cover and cook 1 to 3 minutes more without burning the spice.
9. 9.Transfer to a clean platter and rest 3 minutes. While the surface is still warm, dust the skewers lightly with yajin kuli, keeping most of the blend in a separate serving bowl so each diner can control heat and nuttiness.
10. 10.Serve immediately with sliced red onion, tomato and optional cucumber. Label the platter clearly for peanut allergy and provide clean tongs rather than returning any utensil that touched raw beef.
11. 11.Refrigerate leftover cooked beef within 2 hours for up to 3 days. Reheat briefly under a hot broiler or on a grill just until steaming; prolonged reheating makes the thin slices leathery. Discard serving spice contaminated by meat or used utensils.