Malaysian Asam Pedas Ikan (Sour-Spicy Fish Stew)

Ingredients

• 8 dried long red chiles, stems removed and seeded in part to taste
• 1 cup boiling water, for soaking
• 6 small shallots, peeled and quartered
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled
• 1 stalk lemongrass, tender lower third thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp chopped fresh galangal
• 1 inch fresh turmeric, peeled, or 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 1 tsp toasted belacan shrimp paste, optional but traditional
• 1/3 cup neutral oil
• 2 additional lemongrass stalks, trimmed and bruised
• 3 tbsp seedless tamarind concentrate
• 3 cups water, plus more as needed
• 1 1/2 tsp palm sugar or light brown sugar
• 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 8 small okra pods, stem ends trimmed
• 2 medium tomatoes, cut into wedges
• 1 small bunch daun kesum or Vietnamese coriander, about 12 leaves
• 1 1/2 lb firm white fish steaks or thick fillets, such as red snapper, Spanish mackerel or sea bass
• Steamed jasmine rice, for serving

Method

1. 1.Cover the dried chiles with boiling water and soak 20 minutes, until completely pliable. Drain, reserving 1/2 cup soaking liquid, and check for any hard stems or brittle skin.
2. 2.Blend the softened chiles, shallots, garlic, sliced lemongrass, galangal, turmeric and belacan with 1/4 cup reserved soaking liquid. Scrape the jar repeatedly and add only enough extra liquid to make a smooth, thick paste without visible chile flakes.
3. 3.Heat the oil in a heavy 4-quart pot over medium-low heat. Add the paste and cook 12 to 18 minutes, stirring and scraping frequently. Checkpoint: the raw onion smell should become sweet and aromatic, the paste should darken to brick red, and small beads of oil should separate around it without any blackened bits.
4. 4.Add the bruised lemongrass and cook 2 minutes. Whisk the tamarind concentrate with 3 cups water, then pour it into the pot gradually while scraping up the concentrated paste. Add the sugar and 1 teaspoon salt.
5. 5.Bring the broth to a gentle simmer and cook uncovered 10 minutes. Taste a cooled spoonful: it should be distinctly sour and hot but still savory. Add water 1/4 cup at a time if harshly concentrated, or simmer longer if thin and watery.
6. 6.Add the okra and simmer 4 minutes. Add the tomato wedges and daun kesum, pressing the leaves into the broth, and simmer 2 minutes more. The okra should be bright green and beginning to tenderize rather than soft.
7. 7.Pat the fish dry, cut large fillets into four portions and season with the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt. Lower the pieces into the broth in one layer and spoon sauce over the tops. Keep the liquid at a lazy simmer rather than a rolling boil.
8. 8.Cover partially and cook 5 to 8 minutes, depending on thickness. Checkpoint: the fish should be opaque at the sides, just flake at the thickest point and register 145°F; stop before the pieces split apart into the sauce.
9. 9.Turn off the heat and rest 5 minutes so the fish finishes gently. Taste the broth again and adjust salt, tamarind or sugar in small increments; the finish should remain sour-spicy, not noticeably sweet.
10. 10.Discard the large lemongrass stalks. Serve the fish, okra, tomato and plenty of broth with steamed rice. Cool leftovers within 2 hours and refrigerate up to 2 days; reheat the broth gently and add the fish only long enough to become hot so it does not toughen.