Ghanaian Groundnut Soup (Nkate Nkwan)

Ingredients

• 2 1/2 lb bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin removed if desired
• 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 1 tbsp finely grated fresh ginger
• 4 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 large yellow onion, divided
• 3 ripe Roma tomatoes, roughly chopped
• 1 red bell pepper, seeded and roughly chopped
• 1 whole Scotch bonnet or habanero, stemmed but left unpierced for moderate heat
• 1 cup natural unsweetened smooth peanut butter
• 2 cups warm water, for the peanut base
• 5 cups unsalted chicken stock or water, plus more as needed
• 6 small okra pods, trimmed, optional
• 4 small African garden eggs or 1 small eggplant cut into chunks, optional

Method

1. 1.Season the chicken with 1 teaspoon salt, ginger and garlic. Put it in a heavy pot with half the onion, roughly chopped, and 1 cup stock. Cover and simmer over medium-low heat for 12 to 15 minutes so the chicken begins releasing its juices rather than browning dry.
2. 2.Meanwhile, blend the tomatoes, bell pepper and remaining half onion with 1/2 cup stock until smooth. Pour the mixture into the chicken pot, add the whole Scotch bonnet and simmer uncovered for 10 minutes.
3. 3.Checkpoint: the tomato mixture should lose its raw vegetal smell, deepen from bright red to brick-red and begin coating the chicken rather than looking like fresh blended salsa.
4. 4.In a separate saucepan whisk the peanut butter with 2 cups warm water until completely smooth. Bring to a very gentle simmer over medium-low heat and cook 12 to 18 minutes, stirring and scraping the bottom frequently.
5. 5.Checkpoint: the peanut mixture should darken slightly, smell roasted rather than raw, thicken enough to coat the spoon and show tiny amber beads of peanut oil at the surface or edges. If it catches on the bottom, lower the heat immediately and stir in a splash of water.
6. 6.Whisk the cooked peanut mixture into the chicken pot, then add the remaining stock. Bring only to a gentle boil, reduce to a steady low simmer and leave the pot partially uncovered.
7. 7.Simmer 30 to 40 minutes, stirring along the bottom every 5 minutes so the peanut solids do not scorch. Add the optional okra and garden eggs or eggplant during the final 15 minutes.
8. 8.Checkpoint: the chicken should be tender at the joint and register at least 165°F in the thickest piece; the broth should be smooth and pourable rather than paste-thick; and visible reddish-gold peanut oil should collect in small pools on top.
9. 9.Remove the Scotch bonnet before it breaks unless you want more heat. Taste, add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt as needed and thin with hot water if the soup has reduced beyond a spoonable broth consistency.
10. 10.Serve hot with fufu, banku or omo tuo rice balls. The finished soup should taste deeply roasted and savory, with peanut richness supporting rather than burying the ginger, tomato and chile.