Ghanaian Kenkey (Ga-Style Fermented Maize Dumplings)

Ingredients

• 4 cups finely ground white cornmeal, about 500 g, plus more only if needed
• 2 1/2 cups filtered lukewarm water, 70°F to 80°F, plus more for cooking
• 1 1/2 tsp fine sea salt
• 18 to 24 large dried corn husks, or 6 food-safe banana-leaf rectangles
• Kitchen twine
• Fresh Ghanaian-style pepper sauce, for serving
• Fried or grilled fish, for serving, optional

Method

1. 1.Wash a large glass or food-safe plastic bowl and mixing spoon in hot soapy water, rinse and dry. Stir the cornmeal and 2 1/4 cups lukewarm water into a stiff, smooth dough, adding the remaining water a tablespoon at a time only until no dry pockets remain. The dough should hold its shape rather than pour.
2. 2.Press plastic wrap directly over the surface, then cover the bowl loosely with a lid so gas can escape. Ferment at warm room temperature, ideally 75°F to 82°F, for 36 to 48 hours. Checkpoint: the dough should smell distinctly but cleanly sour, like cultured corn or plain yogurt, with no fuzzy growth, pink or orange patches, slime or putrid odor.
3. 3.Soak the corn husks in very hot water for 30 minutes, weighting them with a plate. Rinse each one and keep them covered with a damp towel. If using banana leaves, wash them and briefly pass each piece over low heat or through hot water until pliable.
4. 4.Measure half of the fermented dough into a heavy saucepan. Whisk in 1 1/2 cups water gradually until smooth, then cook over medium-low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring and scraping constantly. The aflata is ready when it is glossy, very thick and pulls from the pan in one mass with no raw, chalky taste.
5. 5.Cool the aflata for 15 minutes, until warm but safe to handle. Add it to the uncooked fermented dough with the salt. Knead firmly with a sturdy spoon and then damp hands for 5 minutes, until the two portions are completely uniform. If crumbly, work in water 1 tablespoon at a time; if loose, rest 10 minutes before adding a spoonful of cornmeal.
6. 6.Divide the dough into six equal portions, about 6 ounces each, and shape smooth ovals. For every portion, overlap three or four softened husks, place the dough in the center, fold the long sides over it, tuck the ends closed and tie securely with twine. No dough should be visible through a gap.
7. 7.Line a wide heavy pot with spare husks and arrange the packets snugly on top. Add enough boiling water to come three-quarters of the way up the packets. Cover, return to a steady boil, then reduce to a lively simmer.
8. 8.Cook 75 to 90 minutes, turning the packets once with tongs and adding boiling water as needed so the pot never dries. Open one test packet: the kenkey should be firm, cohesive and evenly cream-colored through the center, without a wet or powdery core. Rewrap and cook 15 minutes longer if needed.
9. 9.Lift the packets to a tray and rest 10 minutes. Untie carefully, avoiding the escaping steam, and serve warm with pepper sauce and fish if desired. The kenkey should be pleasantly sour, tender enough to pinch off, yet firm enough to hold together in sauce.
10. 10.Cool unopened leftovers quickly and refrigerate within 2 hours for up to 3 days. Reheat by simmering the wrapped packet in water for 15 to 20 minutes until steaming hot throughout; discard any packet with visible mold or an off odor.