Ecuadorian Llapingachos (Cheese-Filled Potato Cakes)

Ingredients

• 3 lb russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 2-inch chunks
• 1 tbsp kosher salt for the cooking water, plus more to taste
• 2 tbsp neutral oil or achiote oil
• 1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
• 1 1/2 tsp ground achiote, omitted if using achiote oil
• 1/4 tsp ground cumin, optional
• 8 oz low-moisture mozzarella, Oaxaca cheese or quesillo, grated
• 2 to 3 tbsp neutral oil, for the griddle
• Salsa de maní, for serving, optional
• 1 ripe avocado, sliced, for serving
• 6 fried eggs, for serving, optional
• Tomato-and-red-onion curtido or cooked beet salad, for serving, optional

Method

1. 1.Put the potatoes in a large saucepan, cover with cold water by 1 inch and add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, reduce to a steady simmer and cook 18 to 25 minutes, until a piece breaks cleanly when pressed with a fork and no firm core remains.
2. 2.Drain the potatoes thoroughly, return them to the hot empty pot and set over low heat for 2 minutes, shaking once or twice, until the surfaces look dry and chalky. Mash by hand while hot until smooth; do not use a blender or food processor, which makes the starch gluey.
3. 3.Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet over medium. Add the onion and cook 4 to 6 minutes, until soft and translucent but not browned. Stir in the ground achiote and optional cumin for 30 seconds, just until the oil turns orange and smells fragrant.
4. 4.Fold the warm refrito into the mashed potatoes and season with salt. Spread the mash in a wide bowl, cover loosely and let it rest at room temperature for 1 hour. Checkpoint: the cooled mixture should hold a clean thumbprint without sticking heavily; if it is still steamy or slack, give it another 15 minutes.
5. 5.Divide the potato mixture into 12 equal portions, about a generous 1/3 cup each. Roll one portion into a ball, press a deep well in the center and pack in about 1 1/2 tablespoons grated cheese. Pinch the potato completely over the filling, then flatten gently into a cake about 3 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick.
6. 6.Set the shaped cakes on a parchment-lined tray. Smooth any cracks with slightly damp fingers so no cheese is exposed, cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. A well-chilled cake should lift in one piece without sagging over your fingers.
7. 7.Heat a cast-iron griddle or wide nonstick skillet over medium for 4 minutes. Film it with 1 tablespoon oil. Add only as many cakes as fit with 1 inch between them and cook undisturbed for 4 to 5 minutes, until the bottoms are evenly deep gold and release when a thin spatula is worked underneath.
8. 8.Turn each cake once, supporting its top with a second spatula if needed. Cook 4 to 5 minutes more, until the second side is browned and the center is hot enough to soften the cheese. Lower the heat if the crust darkens before the sides feel warm.
9. 9.Transfer the first batch to a rack set over a sheet pan and keep warm in a 225°F oven while cooking the remainder with the additional oil. Do not stack the cakes, which steams away the crust.
10. 10.Serve two warm llapingachos per person with avocado and the chosen accompaniments. Spoon optional salsa de maní alongside rather than flooding the cakes so their browned surfaces stay crisp.
11. 11.Refrigerate cooked leftovers within 2 hours for up to 3 days. Reheat in a lightly oiled covered skillet over medium-low until hot through, then uncover for the final minute to restore the crust; freezing can make the potato texture mealy.