Bicolano Laing (Gabi Leaves in Coconut Milk)

Ingredients

• 3 oz food-grade dried taro (gabi) leaves, picked over for hard stems
• 2 cans (13.5 oz each) full-fat unsweetened coconut milk
• 1 cup coconut cream
• 1 medium yellow onion, finely chopped
• 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp fresh ginger, cut into fine matchsticks or grated
• 1 stalk lemongrass, tender lower portion bruised and cut into 2 pieces, optional
• 1 1/2 tbsp bagoong alamang (Filipino fermented shrimp paste), plus more to taste
• 4 to 6 red bird's-eye or siling labuyo chiles, left whole or sliced to taste
• 1 lb boneless pork belly or pork shoulder, cut into 1/2-inch pieces, optional
• 1 tbsp fish sauce, only if needed after tasting
• Steamed rice, for serving

Method

1. 1.Combine coconut milk, onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass if using, bagoong and the optional pork in a wide heavy pot. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat, then reduce to medium-low and cook 15 to 20 minutes. If using pork, continue until the pieces are opaque and beginning to tenderize.
2. 2.Checkpoint: the coconut mixture should smell strongly of ginger and garlic, with the raw sharpness of the onion gone. It should simmer gently without separating into scorched oil at the bottom.
3. 3.Spread the dried taro leaves evenly over the surface. Press them down lightly with the back of a spoon so the lower leaves touch the liquid, but do not stir them through yet. Cover and simmer on low for 10 minutes.
4. 4.Uncover. The leaves should now look darker, softer and partially collapsed into the coconut liquid. Fold them gently from the edges toward the center until evenly moistened.
5. 5.Add the whole or sliced chiles. Simmer uncovered over low heat for 25 to 35 minutes, stirring gently every 7 to 10 minutes and scraping the bottom so the coconut does not catch. Add a splash of hot water only if the pot becomes dry before the leaves are tender.
6. 6.Checkpoint: do not taste until the taro leaves have cooked for at least 35 to 45 minutes total after first contacting the hot coconut mixture. Fully cooked leaves should be soft throughout with no stiff, scratchy fibers, and the sauce should have reduced enough to cling to them.
7. 7.Stir in the coconut cream and simmer another 8 to 10 minutes. The laing should become glossy and rich, with small beads of coconut oil appearing around the edges but no burnt smell.
8. 8.Taste the sauce and a fully cooked leaf. Add fish sauce or a little more bagoong only if the dish needs salt; avoid masking the coconut and taro with excessive seasoning.
9. 9.Remove the lemongrass pieces if used. Rest 5 minutes off the heat and serve with steamed rice. The finished laing should be moist and spoonable but not soupy, with completely tender leaves and a pronounced coconut, ginger and chile aroma.