Armenian Harisa (Wheat and Chicken Porridge)

Ingredients

• 2 cups hulled or pearled wheat, sold as korkot, dzavar or harees wheat, about 400 g
• 1 whole chicken, 3 to 3 1/2 lb
• 10 cups water, plus more hot water as needed
• 2 1/2 tsp kosher salt, divided, plus more to taste
• 6 tbsp unsalted butter
• 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
• Pickled vegetables and lavash, for serving, optional

Method

1. 1.Rinse the wheat until the water runs nearly clear, cover it by at least 3 inches with cool water and soak 8 to 12 hours. Drain and rinse once more before cooking.
2. 2.Put the chicken in a heavy 7- to 8-quart pot with 10 cups water and 1 teaspoon salt. Bring slowly to a boil, skim the gray foam, then lower to a gentle simmer and cook 60 to 75 minutes, until the thigh meat pulls easily from the bone.
3. 3.Lift the chicken to a tray. Strain the broth into a heatproof bowl, wipe the pot clean and measure 8 cups broth back into it, supplementing with hot water if necessary. Keep any extra broth hot for loosening the porridge.
4. 4.When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skin, bones and cartilage. Shred the meat very finely, feeling carefully for small bones, and set it aside.
5. 5.Add the drained wheat to the broth and bring to a boil. Reduce to the lowest steady simmer, cover with the lid slightly ajar and cook 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hours. Stir and scrape the bottom every 20 minutes after the first hour, adding hot broth or water whenever the wheat threatens to sit dry on the pot.
6. 6.Test several grains against the side of the pot. Continue cooking until every one smears easily and most kernels have burst beyond recognition; a chewy center means the wheat needs more time and liquid.
7. 7.Stir in the shredded chicken and 1 teaspoon salt. Simmer uncovered 30 minutes, stirring every few minutes, until the spoon leaves a path that closes slowly and no loose broth pools at the edge.
8. 8.Lower the heat to its minimum. Beat the porridge firmly against the side of the pot with a sturdy wooden spoon for 15 to 25 minutes. It is ready when the meat fibers disappear into the wheat, the surface turns glossy and a lifted spoon pulls a soft ribbon rather than dropping separate grains.
9. 9.Taste and add the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt if needed. If the harisa stands in a rigid mound, beat in hot water a tablespoon at a time; it should be thick and cohesive but still spoonable. Keep it covered over very low heat.
10. 10.Melt the butter in a small pan until foaming. Stir in the cumin and black pepper for 15 seconds, without burning them. Spoon the hot harisa into warm bowls, make a shallow well in each serving and pour the fragrant butter into it.
11. 11.Serve immediately with pickles and lavash if desired. Cool leftovers in shallow containers within 2 hours and refrigerate up to 4 days; reheat gently with water or broth, stirring until the porridge is steaming and smooth again.